How to Visit The House of Leaves, Tirana
Fancy yourself as a bit of a super sleuth? This fascinating spy museum in Tirana is one of the most unusual and is not to be missed. Albania’s very recent history is pretty dark with the autocratic State controlling and monitoring every move of it’s citizens. Read on to find out exactly how to visit the House of Leaves, what you will find there and loads more useful information for your visit.
What is the House of Leaves
The House of leaves (Shtëpia me Gjethe, in Albanian) is also known as the Museum of Secret Surveillance. The exhibition is set in an old house, literally covered in leaves. The name also refers to the “leaves” of the thousands of books and files containing people’s information.
This creepy building also served as the headquarters of the Albanian secret surveillance – the Sigurimi – throughout the Cold War. Prior to that, the building was a clinic and later a Gestapo base in Albania.
Where is it
The House of Leaves is in Albania’s capital city, Tirana. You can find it in the city centre between Skanderbeg Square and the Taiwan Park. If you are staying in or near the city centre, it is easy to walk to the House of Leaves.
Address: Rruga Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Tirana.
Why Visit the House of Leaves
A visit to the House of Leaves will provide you with some fascinating recent history of Albania and how society was run. The Sigurimi worked in a similar way to the Stasi in East Germany. They had surveillance across the country, thousands of unofficial informants and very strict rules for citizens to live by. The fact that much of this surveillance was carried out in the same building as the exhibition really makes it worth experiencing.
“The House of Leaves’ walls have heard too much. They are confessing now …”
One of the most interesting aspects of the museum is the different types of equipment that was used for spying. Many of these items would have been imported from East Germany. The various methods of surveillance used are also explained in some detail. There is a smaller part of the exhibition that describes everyday life for Albanians during this time.
Don’t miss the bunker in the grounds outside the house. Stepping down towards the cold, dark , concrete shell, you can really get a feel for life under the watchful eye of the Sigurimi.
If you’re into history, espionage or technology (a little dated) then The House of Leaves is a must see while in Tirana. If you get caught up in one of Tirana’s rainy days, a few hours at the museum is a great way to hide out from the weather.
How to Get to the House of Leaves
Due to the museum’s location in the centre of Tirana, it is very accessible from anywhere in the city. If you are staying in the city centre, it is easy to walk there. If you are coming into Tirana from elsewhere, you will likely arrive in the South and North Albania Bus Terminal, in the North West of the city. From here, you can take a city bus into town and you can jump off right outside the House of Leaves Museum.
How Much Time Will You Need to Visit
The exhibition is not huge but there is a lot of information, especially if, like us, you didn’t have much prior knowledge about Albania in the 20th century. The old building is still pretty creepy and does hold a sinister atmosphere. It’s worth hanging around a bit longer to absorb some of that recent history.
We would recommend staying between 1 hour and 3 hours, depending on how much time you would like to spend studying the exhibits.
You could combine your visit with a look around the Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, which is just over the road. It is pretty grand, modern (2012) and really worth a visit.
When to Visit
The House of Leaves can be visited at any time of the year as it is open all year round. However, it definitely gets busier in the summer as Tirana’s tourist count rises. There is no need to book in advance but turing up early in the summer is highly recommended.
The House of Leaves Opening Times
When working out exactly how to visit the House of Leaves, opening times are obviously super useful. So here we are –
Monday Closed
Tuesday 09:00 – 16:00
Wednesday 09:00 – 16:00
Thursday 09:00 – 16:00
Friday 09:00 – 16:00
Saturday 09:00 – 16:00
Sunday 10:00 – 15:00
The House of Leaves Entry Fee
The entry fee for the House of Leaves for adults to is 700 ALL (around €6). There are discounts for seniors, students, kids, etc so ask at the entrance to see what they can offer you. If you visit on the last Sunday of the month, you may get your ticket for free.
What to Pack for Your Visit to the House of Leaves
We have put together a convenient, basic packing list for your visit to the House of Leaves.
- Comfortable shoes for getting up and down the steep steps to the bunker
- Small backpack/bag for supplies
- Refillable water bottle
- Weather appropriate clothing such as windbreaker, hat and fleece if visiting in cold weather
- Sunscreen and sunglasses if visiting in the heat
- Map or downloaded GPS or map app on your phone for travel there and back
- Phone
- Decent camera with plenty of space for pictures
More Info
For even more information on how to visit the House of leaves, check out their official website HERE
The Albanian Language
Just one last thing to consider… Many Albanians in the cities speak a little English but it is useful to learn a few phrases in Albanian. It is certainly not an easy language for English speakers but any attempt is greatly appreciated by the locals. Here are a few words to try out:
Hello Tungjatjeta (toon-jah-TYEH-tah)
Please Ju lutem (yoo LOO-tehm)
Thank you Faleminderit (fah-lehm-meen-DEH-reet)
Yes Po (poh)
No Jo (yoh)
Goodbye Mirupafshim (meer-oo-PAHF-sheem)
How to Visit The House of Leaves, Tirana
Nowadays, Albania is a safe, democratic country which is great to visit. However, we feel that understanding a country’s history allows you to better appreciate it’s present. We found that a visit to the House of Leaves really helped us understand Albanian society today and gave a much deeper meaning to our trip to Tirana.
Where to go next
Ready for another adventure? Maybe you have some more time in the city? Check out these amazing Day Trips from Tirana Perhaps you want to know more about Albania’s secluded, isolated recent past? Take a trip to B’unkArt and explore one of the underground military bunkers. There is plenty of history, nature and food to discover in beautiful Albania.
Final note: Things change in the Balkans all the time and there is not much information online in English. We would definitely advise checking with a local where possible. We found people to be really friendly and super helpful.
Have you visited Tirana or anywhere else in Albania? Are you planning a trip and need more information? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!
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