Secrets of a Forgotten Highland Village

Secrets of a Forgotten Highland Village

Scotland is an ancient country full of history and legend. Therefore, there is no shortage of glens full of sorrow, victorious battlefields and majestic castles. However, there are also lesser known parts of the country that give an incredible insight into the lives of the highlanders of the past. One such place is the highland village of Craignavar.

Craignavar

Not much is known about this tiny highland village but it is thought that is was established sometime in the 1700s and was deserted around 1820. Since then, the 22 buildings have been battered by the elements for nearly 200 years. However, the ruins that remain still give a clear indication of how the village might have functioned.

On a (nearly) sunny day in July we took a socially distanced walk to Craignavar. As we walked along the gravel path we began to see the rubble of the ruins to our right. The old path to the village has long been overgrown so we jump over bogs and dodge the thistles to climb to the level patch of ground. The first set of ruins we reach is the remains of an old croft. There are several of these in the area, along with animal pens and communal buildings such as the small chapel further up the glen.

The Lime kiln at Craignavar

In roughly the centre of the village is the lime kiln. What we see is a stone wall built in a circle and it looks like the entrance to a well. On further investigation, we find out that an agricultural innovative was used create lime to raise the pH of the normally very acid boggy ground. Hill soil is very acidic due to the high rainfall.

The surrounding hill is made of limestone, you just need to extract it from the rock. As a result, this process requires a lot of heat in a controlled kiln environment. The fire is fueled by dried wood creating charcoal – which is why there are no trees left in this area! This will burn very hot in a confined, ventilated space which is why it is dug into ground with a chimney and air inlets at the base to create a draught.

The farmers then spread the lime on the best land to increase production of oats, turnips, potatoes which simply wouldn’t grow otherwise.

Where is Craignavar

The highland village of Craignavar sits almost in the geographical centre of Scotland. Lying just above the highland fault line, it is surrounded by the mountains of the Sma’ Glen and sits on the banks of the River Almond. The nearest sizeable town is Crieff.

Highland cattle drovers

Crieff was once considered the capital of the Highlands. One significant reason for this was the huge cattle markets held in what is now the grounds of Morrison’s Academy. The farmers drove thousands of cattle from the highlands to sell at market to England and the lowlands of Scotland. Every October, Crieff was taken over by around 30,000 cattle and their drovers.

After travelling for miles in cold, wet conditions, with little food, it’s no surprise that the drovers were not exactly upstanding citizens. Stealing and looting were commonplace when the drovers were in town. The gallows in the southern end of Crieff had the capacity for three executions at one time and October was definitely busy season.

About 5 miles before the drovers reached their destination, they would have passed through Craignavar. The Glen to the north of the village has the perfect geography for cattle rustlers. Highlanders wishing to hide stolen cattle would often sit in the glen and wait for the all clear before continuing to the market.

The infamous Rob Roy McGregor was also roaming the Highlands around this time. There is evidence that he visited Crieff so it is very likely that he also passed through Craignavar when heading north.  

The Famous Fiddler Niel Gow

Born in 1727 Niel Gow was the most famous fiddler in Scotland during the 18th century. You can see why HERE. Being a Perthshire lad he agreed to hold a concert in Crieff. He walked from his home village of Inver passing near Craignavar en route.

He most likely walked along General Wade’s Road which ran few hundred yards to east of Craignavar. Spotting a large stone nearby he decided to take a nap. When he woke, he noticed two redcoat (British army soldiers) graves by the old stone. The story goes that this spooked him so much that he ran all the way to Crieff without looking back! Perhaps he saw something else by the grave surrounded by nothing but mountains and heather…

Ossian’s Stone by the village

Ossian was thought to be a blind poet, famous throughout Scotland in the 18th and 19th centuries after the discovery and translation of his work. The poems are thought to have been from the early Dark Ages. Some say this is fact, others have consigned it to legend and claim the “translator” – James MacPherson – really wrote the words.

However, the villagers of Craignavar were never in doubt that Ossian existed and believed he was buried near the village.

General Wade was part of the British army and was tasked with building roads through the Highlands. As the road building reached Craignavar, the soldiers came across a large boulder. Wade’s orders were to build the roads in a straight line, so going round the rock was not an option, it would have to be moved.

Beneath the boulder was a small cavity. Within this, the soldiers found a small pile of bones, ashes and some burnt herbs. However, as the news of the disruption spread, a band of highlanders from nearby villages – including Craignavar – gathered at the stone. They collected the relics and moved them to a new burial place. Then, after a small ceremony, the remains were reburied – possibly near the chapel by the river. These remains are thought to be those of Ossian.

The few trees that remain by the ruins of the chapel are old enough to have been there at the time of the village in its heyday.

Why was Craignavar abandoned?

There are hundreds of abandoned villages thought Scotland. In many cases this was due to the Highland clearances which occurred throughout the Scottish highlands between 1750 and 1860. Crofters and small farmers were evicted by the wealthy southern landowners and replaced with sheep or deer which made the landowners more money.

However, in the case of Craignavar, making a living was almost certainly unsustainable in a hard year. Because of this, farmers would require help from landowners and life would be very difficult. It is thought that many villagers left their homes in the glen in search of work in cities such as Glasgow and Edinburgh. Others may have gone further to the USA, Canada and Australia.

The highland village today

Today, the ruins of Craignavar still lie in the same peaceful part of the Glen. Sitting on a wall in the centre of the empty highland village, listening to the silence, you can almost hear the voices of the villagers in the wind.

More Info

Want to read a bit more? Try our blog about Haunted Perthshire.

Have you visited Scotland or any other abandoned villages? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!