We travel by bus to spend two nights in Riga
We arrived by bus and prepared to spend two nights in Riga. Our bus from Kaunas, Lithuania, arrived at the international bus station, which is right next to the Central Market and relatively close to the old town so is very convenient. Short on time, we jump in an Uber/Bolt and head to the Art Nouveau District, where we’re staying.
It’s nearly dinner time and growing dark already so we head out in search of food. Even in the dark the art nouveau architecture is striking in its intricacy and detail. After a short stroll through the quiet, cobbled neighbourhood, we came across a small restaurant called Rasols. This place serves soviet food with a twist set in an amazing art nouveau interior.
It’s the first of our two nights in Riga and we have an early start tomorrow. We head back to our cozy apartment, which is set in a traditional, Latvian wooden house. Tomorrow we visit the huskies!
The Huskies of Riga
Our guide, Kristina, picks us up in her old Toyota at 7:30 sharp. As we drive towards the woodland, she tells us some interesting facts about the city she grew up in. During Soviet times, they could only build an apartment block up to 5 stories high without installing a lift for the residents, which would be too costly, so most of the early housing had only 5 floors. This was then increased to 9 stories and later up to 12. That is how you can tell how old each block is. The further out of the city we go, the higher the buildings become.
As we get nearer to our destination Kristina tells us a little about the Huskies/Malamutes. They are all rescue dogs. These dogs need to walk around 20km a day to stay relaxed and are not suited to apartment living. So many of them end up in kennels. The dogs we are visiting have been trained to pull a sled in the snow or a wheeled cart over a clear woodland track.
We arrive at the track
The sound of excited dogs is loud as we drive up the track. Climbing out of the car, about 12 – 15 dogs are ready to greet us. They vary in size, age and colour but all are equally excited! After some time playing and cuddling with them, we help to prepare the wheeled cart. It is October and there has not been a snowfall yet. But the Latvian forest is a beautiful mix of deciduous green and falling, amber leaves.
The dogs are ready and almost cannot contain their eagerness. With one word from the boss, we’re off! Grateful for the protective goggles, dirt flies off the track as the cart moves through the forest at the speed of 6 enthusiastic huskies. The dogs are now silent. They are focused on listening for commands which come through clear and calm. The smell of the soft pine needles on the track is somehow relaxing and the connection to nature is powerful.
After running in a 3km loop we arrive back at the start. The dogs are now content and quietly resume their place by the trees. They have been bred for this purpose and it is evident how much they enjoy their work.
Time to visit Riga’s Moscow District
We return to the city in the early afternoon. Armed with a few local tips from Kristina, we decided to walk east to the Moscow District, via the Central Market. The converted airship hangars, which house the stalls, can be seen from the river. So, we begin walking in that direction.
The markets are jam-packed with everything you can imagine. They are roughly split into categories with different hangars selling different wares. We spent a lot of time in the fresh food area where you can buy fruit, vegetables, pickles, baked goods, and anything else you might desire.
After exiting from the other side of the market, and walking for about 5 minutes, we enter the heart of the Moscow district, or Maskavas priekšpilsēta. Perhaps preceded by is reputation, known to be a little rough around the edges, there are no other tourists to be seen. Strolling through the quiet streets, passed old, warped, wooden houses it feels like another point in history.
The central focus of the area seems to be the soviet style building housing the Academy of Sciences – also nicknamed ‘Stalin’s birthday cake’. You can climb to the balcony of the 17th floor for a good view over the city.
The remains of the Great Choral Synagogue are also contained within this district. During the Nazi occupation of Latvia, the Synagogue was destroyed and a Ghetto was swiftly set up to hold the Jews of Riga before deportation.
Have a cocktail at the Skyline Bar
With two nights in Riga we had time to visit the Skyline bar. This had been recommended by locals so it would be rude not to. We make our way there in time to watch the sun set, which is quite early in October.
The bar is buzzing and seats at the windows are scarce. I’m feeling brave and order a Balsam Espresso Martini, a twist on the traditional black balsam drink. Booking in advance is a must to secure the best seats. We decided to wait around for an available table with a view and it was so worth it!
Riga’s old town
For our final day in the Latvian capital we decide to check out the old town. Within walking distance from our apartment in the Art Nouveau area – even with heavy bags – we wander to the castle which lies on the banks of the River Daugava. Despite dating from the 14th century it has been heavily renovated and doesn’t merit much of our precious time.
The centre of the old town is worth every minute. Ambling along the narrow, cobbled streets there is something beautiful around every corner. Around this particular corner is a café called Crumble Cake. Taking a seat in the kitsch, little room we order the traditional, fruit filled crumble and a coffee and relax for a while.
Whilst exploring other parts of the old town we stop by Town Hall Square to admire the oddly named House of the Blackheads. This old building is much more attractive than it sounds. Built in the 14th century, this building was beautifully restored after being destroyed during the war.
With about an hour left until our bus departs, we set out on one last wander through the enticing streets of the old town. We take a detour to see the “Three Brothers”, three of the oldest dwellings in Riga dating back to the late 15th century.
Leaving Riga
Riga stands out for its dashing old town, stylish art nouveau and slightly notorious, if not charming, Moscow District. Leaving the winding, cobbled streets behind we head for the International bus terminal where we wait for our journey to Tallinn to begin.
Two nights in Riga gives you time to get a great feel for this compact and vibrant city. It is a great stop on a Baltic tour and there is plenty more to do if you can stay for longer!
More Info
- For more information, visit Riga Tourist Info HERE
- Heading to Tallinn next? You can take a comfortable 4 hour bus easily and cheaply straight to the city centre. For the perfect 1 day itinerary and loads of useful tips and advice check out Journication HERE. Or if you want to meet the huskies of Riga click HERE for more info.
- Kaunas, Lithuania is also a 4 hours bus from Riga. Check out our 5 Fascinating reasons to visit Kaunas
- Maybe you fancy visiting Tallinn’s Creepy Soviet Prison
Have you visited Riga? Are you planning a trip and need more information? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!
