Visit Beautiful, Medievil Tallinn in the Autumn

Continuing our Baltic tour, we took the bus from Latvia’s capital, Riga, to Tallinn, Estonia. Our journey had started in Kaunas, a beautiful, quiet city in Lithuania with some fascinating history, sights and culture. We then moved on to Riga where our days were jam packed! There is so much to discover in this exciting city. From the medieval old town to the quirky Moscow District and the beautiful huskies in the Latvian woodland, Riga will truly captivate you. But time to move on and experience Tallinn in the Autumn.

The bus from Riga to Tallinn

We decided to take the bus to Tallinn as it was cheap and convenient. Our tickets were booked online with ECOLINES and cost €10. The coach was really modern and spacious and even had a screen, with shows and movies, on every seat. We looked into a few different options, as usual. If you’re interested in visiting historic Tartu on your tour, the train is a good choice as you must change in the city anyway.

Riga to Tallinn
	Travel time (hours)	Cost (1 way)	Distance (km)	Comfort Factor
Bus	5	5 – 20 Euros	312	*****
Car	4.5	25 – 35 Euros	312	****
Train	7	15 – 25 Euros	439	****

Arrival at Tallinn Bus Station

Our bus from Riga finally pulls into Tallinn after a five hour journey. It’s getting late, it’s dark and it’s pouring. The bus was busy, but people are quickly collected by friends and relatives or quietly making their own way to their destination. We stand in the centre of the near deserted bus station as we work out how to get to our accommodation (our bus journey was unwisely spent watching movies).

Eventually, we order a taxi and make our way to the apartment in the Kalamaja District. It’s late, and not much is open, so we settle in and prepare for our first day of exploring in a new city.

We walk through the Kalamaja District

This morning we plan to explore Tallinn’s old town. Our apartment is set in a converted warehouse in the former industrial part of town and is within walking distance of the centre.

En route, we walk by a large park full of rustling, amber trees before passing the beautiful, old wooden houses of the Kalamaja District. So far, Tallinn in the autumn sunlight is stunning. With no time to stop for breakfast we nip into a supermarket to grab a snack to eat on the go. We have a schedule to stick to today!

Time to discover Tallinn’s Old Town

We have booked a place on one of Tallinn’s free walking tours and our guide is waiting for us in the old town. Our small group sets off along the cobbled streets with our guide, Risto, at the helm. He is passionate and knowledgeable about his city and its history – which is long and complicated. We visit many of Tallinn’s interesting spots such as the city wall towers, Town Hall Square and the Danish King’s Garden. He tells tales that are a mixture of accurate historical accounts and dubious anecdotes. For example, Estonians are said to have been rationed to a single roll of toilet paper for a whole year, shared between seven people, until the 1960s!

After an educational few hours exploring the sights of the old town we take a break at Maiasmokk Café. Dating back to 1864, this is the oldest café in Estonia. Inside, the café is bustling, mostly with chatty, elderly customers. The décor is old fashioned, if a little kitsch, but just how you’d imagine the country’s oldest café to look. They also have a shop selling very curious, detailed, marzipan sculptures. We each order a coffee and a cake and watch the world go by for a while.

The weather in Tallinn in the Autumn

During our early morning tour we passed a few places that might merit another visit. But since then, the sun has changed to a light drizzle. The weather is fickle in Tallinn in the Autumn. The temperature varies between 9°C and 3°C and is often wet and changeable due to its proximity to the sea. The thought of the cold can put a lot of tourists off, so if you don’t enjoy crowds then Tallinn in the autumn is perfect for you!

Tallinn’s vegan chocolate

Karu Talu – selling handmade, vegan chocolates – is a place worth returning to. We retrace our steps down the narrow alley and find the modest entrance to the store. As soon as we open the door we are hit by the sweet smell of the chocolate we see behind glass counters, piled high in mounds of different varieties. With such a huge selection we struggle to choose just one. The server explains all the available varieties but tells us, “They are all good, there is no wrong choice”. We eventually leave with a block of salted caramel and a block of mint choc chip.

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral sits atop the hill of Toompea. After stopping by briefly on our tour, we make our way back for a second look. On reaching the top of the hill, we are greeted by the impressive and imposing Russian Revival style church. The cobbled streets are quiet, as the tourist numbers dwindle in the autumn, and the cathedral is surrounded by charming, colourful buildings. This spectacular structure has been meticulously renovated and well maintained and is certainly worth the climb – and a look inside if you have time.

Tallinn’s incredible pancakes

It’s well passed lunch time by now. Our guide in Riga had told us not to leave Tallinn without eating at Kompressor. Claiming to have the best pancakes in the Baltics, it would be rude not to. We manage to find the restaurant in the old town. The entrance is decorated with several rotund frogs, a glimpse of how we might look after lunch, perhaps.

After spending the rest of the afternoon soaking up the atmosphere of the old town, we begin to make plans for the evening.

Speakeasy is Tallinn

Having always been fans of the roaring ‘20s, news of a speakeasy in Tallinn was extremely exciting. Whisper Sister is a cocktail bar, with no signage, hidden away in a large building in the capital. This is where we are going tonight. Our new favorite mode of transport, the electric scooter, takes us a little outside the old town and we start looking for the illusive watering hole. It’s dark, but fortunately the weather is dry and relatively mild, for an autumnal evening in Tallinn.

Finding the correct street is easy but locating the exact door takes a few attempts. Eventually we spot a tiny, brass plaque on a green door with the name and phone number inscribed on it. Tentatively we call the number. After a brief conversation, we are asked to wait and someone will come to collect us. In under a minute a well-groomed gent greets us and invites us in. He takes time to show us around and talks us through the different cocktails they offer. They also make up any cocktails you request.

We take a seat in the lounge area. The décor reflects that of the New York speakeasys of the 1920s but with a modern twist. It’s midweek in October so the bar is quiet but there is still a wonderful atmosphere. The cocktail menu is comprehensive and imaginative so we’re quite happy to spend the evening sampling a few.

Tallinn in the autumn

We spent three nights in Tallinn in the autumn. It is possible to fit a lot into one day and get a good feel for this compact, old city. There are far fewer tourists so there are no crowds and no waiting around. So a shorter trip is definitely feasible. But if you can stay longer then all the better. Don’t worry about the weather and take time to explore this fascinating and charming city.

More Info

• For more information, visit Tallinn Tourist Info HERE
• Heading to Riga next? You can take a comfortable 4 hour bus easily and cheaply straight to the city centre. For amazing things to do in Riga read our blog: Two Nights in Rakish Riga
• Another option is to take the ferry to Helsinki in Finland

Have you visited Tallinn or elsewhere in Estonia? Are you planning a trip and need more information? Drop a comment in the box, we’d love to hear from you!